I moved house recently, this will be my last. Not suggesting that I’m
moving on any time soon, but the house itself has strong echoes of
the transitory. Its name, Bedeque, refers to a red-bricked street off
Belfast’s Crumlin Road which disappeared in the seventies; the
stone was taken from Enniskillen’s old railway station.
There was a time, when travelling on holidays, we’d be looking out for the first
glimpse of the ocean; daily now, it’s our first view of the outside
world as we look out over Rossnowlagh, across Donegal Bay towards St
John’s Point, Killybegs and Sliabh League. The view through the
dormer window has something of those old seafaring novels, I almost
expect to see a galleon moored in the bay, but, actually it’s
empty, the trawlers coming and going from Killybegs are hidden by St
John’s long finger.
What I do see is the
play of sunlight on the water, ever-changing as the cloudscapes are
ever-changing in this part of the world. Glittering circles, burnished
bronze; brilliant white streaks; silver-grey stripes; colours, that
defy nomenclature, existing for seconds only, then passing with a
puff of wind.
Some days the
mountains are one with the sea, some days with the sky, sometimes all
are one, lost in low stratus cloud, as empty a nowhere as anyone has
ever seen. But the greatest glories come with the
setting sun, spectacular at the end of August; red like the ambient
glow on the cinema screens of my childhood, suggesting, as the old
films did, mysterious, exotic worlds just beyond those wild
impenetrable mountains.
And then, in
darkness, the lighthouse and beacon lights across the bay; the house
lights, street lights; the transience of our lives so much more
appreciable in the miniaturisation of distance, beside the vastness
of the ocean, its permanence and its indifference; there is a
beautiful melancholia attached to it all. Which brings me back to the
transitory: Bedeque Street in Belfast, Enniskillen Railway station;
maybe I’m getting carried away?
It’s all relative
of course, glad I’m not a mayfly.